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Thanks for watching. I agree with everything you say. We always felt very privileged that we had the resources to get this work done and enjoyed it as a DIY project. But our hearts go out to those elderly, disabled or of limited resources when it comes to making their home warm. Successive UK Governments have continually under-delivered appropriate support packages and education. Let's hope this changes. Thanks for tuning in a dropping us a message.

Thanks for watching. There was no wall bracing used as there are no walls in the attic other than the gable-ends. The over-joisting was secured to the existing A-frames. Roofing L an I plates were used.

Thanks for watching! Probably 4x2 sounds better. I chose 4x2 because 4inches is about 100mm which was the depth of insulation so it fits in-between the rafters. My sections were laid on top of the load bearing rafters at right-angles as the video illustrates - and this has proven an effective solution. Not too sure what you wish to learn about ventilation though? My purpose was to add extra insulation and ventilation is not a consideration for us as we have fully-vented soffits. Depends upon what usage you wish to put the space to. If it is storage (as for us) then ventilation is not a problem. Indeed we didn't want too much ventilation. If you wish to use the attic space for anything other than storage then you will need professionals to lay down load-bearing joists obviously. That would be a different project. Best wishes in your project.

No.😁

@@Superhome59 great delivery 👌 seemed like a teachers approach lol

Great. Yes, that will work. Thanks.

Thanks for the suggestion. In practice this is unlikely to work as placing the bag over the tray is likely to send the dust flying. Secondly, if the tray is still hot then it could be disastrous. In reality we find there is no actual problem is walking the ash tray out of the house. Best wishes.

Yes. We still use this boiler. Given the size of this investment it should be good for another fifteen years.

We had the cavities filled in the first year we moved in so we have no real baseline for comparison. A few years back I ran a thermal camera over the house and the only issue I found was that insulation in the gable-end wall had slumped into a inverted "V" shaped pile and had not been filled to the roof line. It is one of the reasons the bedroom over the garage is always colder. Our plan is eventually to supplement this with internal wall insulation. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment. Questions always welcome!

@@Superhome59 thank you very much. I'm in the process of retrofitting my bungalow at the moment hence my interest :) can I ask what insulation material you had injected in the cavity wall?

@@kev6735 Well I don't think you get a choice or that it matters but the material used for our home was a yellow fluffy material. It was not white polystyrene beads.

Yes, it is a multi-fuel stove. It could also be adapted to burn coal. Obviously we would not be burning fossil fuels though. What makes you think that one of the "multiple fuels" is not logs?

@@Superhome59 generally a multi is coal and wood. A wood stove is just wood. That’s why it burns on the floor. Yes ?

@@terrythurston8572 Thankyou for getting back to us with your question. There is no significant difference in the stove between the use of the two different fuels. However, as we are in a smoke control zone we would not have burnt coal anyway. The installers never left us with the alternative front grate that would be used for coal. So the configuration of the Dovre 250 we have installed is ONLY for wood burning., We could not burn coal in it even if we wanted to. I do not believe the meaning of "multi-fuel stove" implies you would burn both at the same time. As they have different internal parts then it is either/or.

There is a significant difference in a 250 cbs and a multi fuel. The baffle plate is different, the back plate is different, there is no grate or ash pan and the complete floor of a wood only is different. , I own both the dovre 250 wood and multi , can assure you the internal arrangement is very different. Hope this helps you. . Cheers T

Thanks for watching. We have bags for practical reasons. We didn't have space for a hopper but a hopper would have been better. Our pellet supplier used to re-use the bags but no longer. They all have to be thrown away. Not ideal.

Sounds like a good idea.

@@Mikegee63 I done the whole house seems to get up to temp fast, the walls behind the rad are no longer sucking up the heat it’s coming straight out

So true!

correct

Thankyou for watching.

Thankyou! Good luck in your project. Best wishes.

Thankyou for your inquiry. If you glance down the comments here you will see that cleaning the dirty glass is a regular talking point. So this dirt build up is quite normal and is a regular experience for stove users. The reason why some users have less problem than others is stove size. My Dovre 250 is really tiny hence the fuel load is quite close to the glass. This sends out jets of vapourised creosote and carbon smuts that coat the glass as that is where the dirt condenses before an air current can whisk it away up the flue. If you have a much larger stove then the fuel can be a long way away from the glass. Hence good air circulation will keep the glass clean. That is my assumption.

Thanks for tuning in and watching. If you have any ideas you have for more videos let us know. We simple ran out of topics. The vids here are based purely upon specific topics relevant to our home. Since we have finished work there was nothing to add. There was only a finite number of topics to cover and we covered them. Thanks for watching.

All the over-joists were fixed along their lengths to the underlying joists using the metal L plate brackets. The ends of the timber may well have over-hung a little in places. There was nothing to fix them to. A gap was left around all of the over-joisting so no timber was laid end-to-end in such as fashion that the ends butted up against anything that they could be fixed to.

@@Superhome59 Thanks for the clarification

Thanks for watching. To answer your comments I can only direct you to the related videos or invite you to visit Superhome 59. As stated in the video the ashes are emptied when cold so clearly putting them in a plastic containers is fine. I am unsure why you got the impression that the ashes were hot when I clearly stated the opposite in the video. As for the kindling on the biomass boiler. It is a biomass boiler. It contains 225kg of wood pellets. Two pallets of wood pellets are stacking right next to it. It is a boiler: a machine to contain heat and direct it to heat water. It is not hot on the outside in the way that a wood burning stove is. There is a plastic small box on one side that contains the PAPER instruction Manual. There is no fire hazard on the outside of the boiler. If you have further questions please let me know.

Good luck!

Thanks for watching. Actually the joists are exactly the same width apart as the existing house joists which is the same as the width of the insulation. I recall this something like 60cm. If you stick to the existing standard spacing you should find that the loft boards you buy fit perfectly inbetween.

@@Superhome59 Thanks a lot

Thanks for watching. Please review the Project Page here: www.post-carbon-living.com/Post_Carbon_Homes_Insulation.htm for all the details you requested.

The Sheep's Wool was £999 and the wood was £618. (There was also a new attic hatch door, some pipe insulation and some new lighting.) The sheep's wool was rolled out right on top of the mineral wool without separation. I did this as a DIY exercise and it took me about 8 to 12 weeks but I was only able to get about an hour's work done in the evening's after work. Thanks for watching. If you have any further questions let me know.

I know of no prohibition against using screws into trusses. Indeed that would be odd given that recommended approaches to insulation and loft conversion all require screwing things into trusses and joists. Certainly don't saw through them but nails and screws are fine.

Yes your interpretation is exactly correct: first layer of new joists laid over original structural joists at 90 degrees. Second layer at 90 degrees to that - forming a lattice. Thanks for watching.

Thankyou.

Thanks for visiting and watching. I am not sure there is any great science to it but in my example I started working on the back of the house then the front. These long sections are not interrupted by any hatch so I could go end-to-end easily. Then in the main centre section: one end could not be boarded because of the water tank. On the opposite end I worked from the wall to the centre & to the loft hatch last. This was only because boarding around the hatch was the most complicated. I had position the final top layer of joists offset one joist away from the hatch. (The final joists are screwed to the side of the A Frame so you have to choose which side.) This gave me maximum clearance around the hatch but I ended up with an uneven extra long space between final over-joists at the hatch. Hence standard size loft boards would not fit. I had to use leftover metal roofing plates under the boards to support them. Not ideal but it works. Thanks for your time. If you have further questions do not hesitate to ask.

@@Superhome59 Ah, I understand now. I too need to contend with loft tanks and associated pipework which are situated in the front / middle portion of the loft. I think beginning from the wall that divides mine and my neighbour's respective properties is possibly the best thing for me, because I don't want to immediately deal with the overflow pipes that trail from the loft tanks to the back wall of my house. Once I get a little confidence in laying down some over-joists and boards in a relatively unobscured area of the loft, then I'll scoot over to the slightly more complex section of the space. I'm anticipating I'll need to trim boards and timber when I begin to reach the area around the hatch, but that won't be too much of a concern I hope. Thanks so much for the speedy reply.

@@raminybhatti5740 No problem. Good luck. (Most of my attic pipework was concentrated over the DHWC and around the tank keeping things simple. The only complexity was a pipe that ran down to a bathroom at the other end of the house. Thankfully this was at the inverted apex of the A Frame hence I had no need to cover it with a board - just a bit of insulation.)

Thanks for the feedback. This question has been asked before and I have answered it before. The manufacturers do not recommend the use of abrasive cleaners on stove glass. All methods that use granulated carbon technically clean by abrasion hence I do not personally recommend them. Certainly they work. But then again - so does Windolene - a simple mix of ammonia and vinegar would probably do just as good a job. Until I hear some scientific appraisal of the abrasive qualities of carbon on stove glass I cannot wholeheartedly recommend it. If it works for you then fine - but remember the caveat. Thanks for watching.